TruSkin Retinol Serum for Face -- 1 fl oz

The phrase “microdosing” first originated in psychedelic therapy circles where minute amounts of psychoactive substances are used to help treat a wide range of health issues. So how did this idea cross over into skincare routines?

What is microdosing, and which ingredients are best microdosed?

Perhaps it was spurred by the pandemic, where many people became overzealous with their skin care products during lockdown and began overlapping several high-strength goods at once. Skin barrier research suddenly tripled over the past year as many recovered from hypersensitized inflamed skin, and a “less is more” approach was born. According to Dr. Jason Thomson, Dermatology Specialist Registrar at Skin+Me, “it’s the active ingredients that cause side effects that can be microdosed. These include retinoids, vitamin C, hydroxy acids such as glycolic and lactic acid.” Retinoids, a class of compounds derived from vitamin A, stimulate cell turnover when applied topically, which activates fresh, new skin cells that are plump and full of collagen, hence less wrinkled.^† Vitamin C can also promote collagen production when applied to the skin barrier, while diminishing signs of sun-damage like dark spots, and in combination with ferulic acid and vitamin E, may actually help protect the skin from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays.^† Alpha hydroxy acids are naturally exfoliating, stripping the skin of dead, dull cells, revealing a glowing, polished complexion beneath.^† Salicylic acid is a ?-hydroxy acid, related to alpha hydroxy acids, so it also exfoliates but is especially a star player in helping to dry up acne breakouts and clear pores.^† While salicylic acid reigns supreme in reducing acne, and retinol, vitamin C and hydroxy acids offer unparalleled results when it comes to improving fine lines, hyperpigmentation (dark blemishes) and overall skin texture, all of these ingredients can also cause redness, swelling, excessive drying and flaking or peeling of the skin if used too often or in large doses.

So, how minute is a microdose?

Retinol products, for example, are traditionally sold at 1% or even 3% strength over the counter, while newer microdosed retinol products contain only 0.1 to 0.3%. Try Baebody’s Retinol Facial Serum which blends moisturizing and gentle jojoba oil with the protective and nourishing antioxidants green tea and vitamin E. Also look for exfoliating products with a blend of 3 to 8% of hydroxy or glycolic acids, instead of some that have 12% or more in their formulas, such as InstaNatural’s Glycolic Cleanser which pairs the chemically exfoliating power of glycolic acid with soothing cucumber and chamomile extracts. Or FaceMe’s Vitamin C Serum with plant stem cells extracts and the protective ferulic acid and vitamin E combination mentioned earlier.

Less really is more

When choosing products to microdose, the key is to keep the active ingredients down to a minimum and not to double them up either with one product or during one application. “I normally advise against combining active ingredients that can be irritating such as retinoids, vitamin C and acids as you’re going to increase your chances of developing side effects,” Dr. Thomson advises, “The way to incorporate powerful active ingredients into your routine is to go slowly and gradually build up tolerance.” Look for products where one active ingredient is primary and avoid ones that pair them together such as vitamin C with retinoids or glycolic acid with salicylic acid. This is reminiscent of the overapplication of products that was occurring early in the pandemic, which led to sensitized skin. Sensitized skin is different than sensitive skin – sensitized skin describes what happens when the skin's lipid barrier (or outermost layer) is weakened over time. Three of the biggest factors that compromise the skin barrier are pollution, stress and – that’s right – excessive use of active treatments.

Are there any exceptions to microdosing?

“Sunscreen should never be microdosed,” emphasizes Dr. Thomson, “although most people are unintentionally using less sunscreen than they should to get the SPF advertised on the bottle. I recommend putting the product across two fingers before applying, to work out how much you need to cover your face and neck.” For adequate protection, the American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD) recommends broad-spectrum protection sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB rays, has an SPF of 30 or higher, is water resistant and should be applied at least 15 minutes before going outdoors. Choose Babo Botanicals’ Sheer Zinc Sunscreen, which fits the bill due its gentle, fragrance-free, non-greasy formula, plus its broad-spectrum, SPF 30 protection. Antioxidants such as vitamin E or green tea, moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acid, skin barrier builders like ceramides, and nourishing ingredients like licorice root can also be used liberally. Oils such as jojoba, almond or argan are also barrier builders but should be used judicially so they don’t begin to clog pores. Any new product should be used with caution, however, and if it causes skin to itch, sting or burn, the AAD urges the cessation of that product, unless directly prescribed by a dermatologist.

Who benefits from microdosing?

Everyone! “By using lower concentrations, more regularly” explains Dr. Thomson, “you can gradually build up your skin’s tolerance to the powerful active ingredients. This minimizes the chance of side effects, such as dryness and sensitivity, still getting the benefits.” Those with sensitive, dry, or aging skin may benefit the most from microdosing, but anyone who wants to experience the benefits of hydroxy acids or retinoids can begin by starting small. “The key is building up tolerance so that you can continue with regular, consistent use,” Thomson explains. “If you’re starting and stopping on a strength you can’t tolerate and that’s leading to periods of irritation and sensitivity, you’re not going to be able to continue treatment and perhaps even end up in a worse place than when you started.” The essential difference between microdosing and using full strength products is the time it will take to see an improvement in skin texture, smaller pores or diminished fine lines. It may take longer to see comparable results so don’t expect quick changes. However, the discomfort and embarrassment of flaking, red or swollen skin will also not be an issue. So, if you decide to give microdosing a try, be patient but be ready to say goodbye to hypersensitized skin and hello to a healthier complexion! ^†These statements have not been approved by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.