People with naturally thin lips can probably relate, understanding the appeal of lip plumper treatments as a way to augment lip size and boost fullness for that “wow” or glam factor. Effects are temporary, so you’ll notice immediate results and improvement, which eventually wears off. Lip plumper doesn’t offer a long-term solution, but can be a major hack and helper in the moment.
“Lip plumper is a cosmetic product designed to temporarily enhance the appearance of fuller lips and usually works by slightly irritating the lips or increasing blood flow, causing them to swell and appear plumper,” says Dr. Anna Chacon, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist based in Miami.
Here’s a breakdown of how lip plumper works, its ingredients and benefits, and the forms it typically comes in.
How lip plumper works
Non-invasive and unlike fillers or injections, lip plumpers offer a temporary solution without needles.
“They provide a temporary plumping effect, usually lasting from a few hours to a day, depending on the product and individual’s skin type,” Chacon says.
Lip plumpers are applied directly to lips like gloss or balm, making them easy to use or reapply. Tingling is a normal reaction. Plumper works by triggering a slight irritation when interacting with ingredients like capsaicin, cinnamon and menthol. Capsicum, found in chili peppers, as well as cinnamon and menthol, are natural irritants that contribute to swelling.
Many lip plumping products also moisturize lips, improving texture and reducing dryness. There’s no need to wait, as lip plumper gives lips an augmented appearance almost immediately. A boost in lip color from increased blood flow can occur, with lips looking more naturally flushed or rosy. It’s a lovely effect.
What’s in lip plumper?
Common ingredients in lip plumper include:
Glycerin
Hydrants offer moisture and softness for healthy, full lips. “Some plumpers use hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which draw in moisture to lips and make them look fuller and more hydrated,” Chacon notes.
Glycerin is a humectant that attracts moisture to skin. In lip plumper, it helps keep lips soft and hydrated. As a hydrant, glycerin prevents dryness or flakiness, and it gives lips a plumper, smoother look.
“Opt for lip plumpers with glycerin, especially if you have dry or chapped lips, and consider layering a hydrating lip balm over it for added moisture retention,” Chacon suggests.
Hyaluronic acid
A powerful humectant that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, hyaluronic acid draws in moisture to lips and boosts fullness when used in a plumper. You’ll noticeably find lips to be plumper and more hydrated with use. It also helps reduce the appearance of fine lines around the lips.
“Choose lip plumpers with hyaluronic acid for a more long-lasting plumping effect, and apply regularly, especially in dry climates or during winter months when lips tend to lose moisture,” Chacon says.
Peptides and collagen stimulators
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that serve as the building blocks of proteins, such as collagen or elastin. In plumper, they stimulate collagen production to promote a firmer, more youthful appearance in the lips. Consistent use can lead to longer-lasting results and aging benefits.
“By enhancing collagen levels, peptides improve the elasticity and volume of the lips over time, leading to a more plump look,” Chacon says.
Peptides also aid in skin barrier repair and hydration. A tip?
“Look for lip plumpers that specifically list peptides among active ingredients,” Chacon says.
Botanical oils and butters
These include avocado oil, jojoba oil and shea butter. Natural ingredients are used for their nourishing and moisturizing properties.
“Avocado oil is rich in vitamins and fatty acids, and shea butter provides deep hydration,” Chacon says.
Jojoba oil mimics skin’s natural oils. Botanicals or butters help soften and condition lips, prevent dryness and improve overall lip texture. Anti-inflammatory properties also calm irritated or chapped lips. Maximize hydration with a combination of oils and butters.
How to use lip plumper
Many forms exist, including gloss, balm, mask and serum. Most common is gloss, which gives lips a nice shine while plumping them. Balm is often a more subtle, hydrating option that also plumps. Masks used at night and during sleep are helpful.
“Plumping masks are designed to be left on for a period of time (often overnight) for deep hydration and plumping effects,” Chacon says.
Serum is a concentrated form that can be used as a treatment, either alone or layered under other lip products.
“Some lipsticks have built-in plumping agents for added volume,” Chacon adds.
Apply directly to clean, dry lips for a plumped-up look. Use plumper as a base, applying prior to lipstick or gloss, for fullness. You can also use it over lipstick, liner or gloss as a final step, too. To enhance color, choose bold lipstick, such as red, as the increased volume makes color pop and gives lips a defined shape.
Best lip plumpers
Lip plumper gloss with collagen is great, such as this one, which has a plant-based formula enriched with vegan collagen to promote hydration and plumping. It keeps lips soft and moisturized, too. Lightweight, non-tacky texture and various shades are a bonus, giving lips a beautiful shine and feel. Lip plumper with hyaluronic acid and antioxidants is another good option, especially with a blend of nourishing ingredients. This lip plumper has a lightweight formula, giving lips a smooth, non-sticky finish for all-day wear.
Lip plumper concerns
Results can vary based on the individual, so always perform a patch test and avoid use if concerned. Sensitive skin types may experience irritation, redness or burning from irritants, which is why patch testing is key.
“Test a small amount on skin before applying to lips,” Chacon suggests.
You can also choose products specifically formulated for sensitive skin. If you’re allergic to botanicals or fragrances, make sure to read product labels and avoid lip plumpers containing allergens. People with pre-existing lip conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis and cold sores (herpes simplex), may find lip plumper triggering, as well as for those with skin sensitivity or circulation issues. Be cautious if pregnant or breastfeeding, too.
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